Review: Cucina Vivo (Gold Coast, QLD)

Jupiters Hotel and Casino
Broadbeach Island
Broadbeach QLD 4218
+61 7 5592 8100
http://www.jupitersgoldcoast.com.au/dining/Pages/Cucina-Vivo.aspx

Disclaimer: Adam and I dined as guests of Jupiters and Wonderland PR.

You might recall me whinging about the severe lack of good, authentic Italian restaurants on the Gold Coast in my last post. Sure, if bastardised Aussie-Italian food is what you’re after, there’s plenty of it here. Want authentic nonna-style Italian fare? You’re better off going to Sydney, Melbourne or booking a flight to Rome. Can’t afford a plane ticket? Then a meal at Cucina Vivo is probably your best beat if you’re stranded in the Goldie.

Cucina Vivo happens to be the Italian jewel in the newly refurbished Jupiters Hotel and Casino complex in the heart of Broadbeach. It boasts an spacious open air dining room overlooking the swimming pool plus views of the Broadbeach and Surfers Paradise skyline, making it a great venue to wine and dine during the warmer nights. In comparison to the rest of the (non-refurbished part of the) casino, it’s stylish, polished and effortlessly breezy.

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To start things off, Adam and I were presented with a selection of appetisers.

Schiacciata ($9)
Schiacciata ($9)

First up, the garlic pizza with pesto verde. A short stint in the wood fire oven gave this beauty a crispy exterior and a slightly chewy middle, forming the perfect base for a simple topping of fresh basil pesto perfumed by fruity olive oil and a bit of parmesan. Due to the massive amount of food that we consumed throughout the course of the evening, we weren’t able to polish this off but it made for a mighty fine lunch the following day.

Carpaccio ($16)
Carpaccio ($16)

The beef carpaccio was in the ‘nice but don’t rush to order category’ – it wasn’t a dynamic explosion of flavours or textures or anything, just a good ol’ seared sliced eye fillet drizzled with lemon and topped with shaved parmesan and perhaps a bit TOO much rocket.

Calamari fritti ($15)
Calamari fritti ($15)

The calamari fritti was a better starter; lightly fried, these tentacles were beautifully tender. The dill aioli that came with it was nice enough but I wouldn’t have been too miffed if the dish came without it – the calamari was already perfect on its own.

Filetto di Manzo ($35)
Filetto di Manzo ($35)

It was funny how we both decided to order the steak. Despite being half-Italian, Adam is still very much a steak and parma guy so he opted for the filetto di Manzo. The 180g chunk of 100-day grain fed tenderloin was gone within minutes – partly because Adam has a massive appetite and partly because it was apparently really good (I wouldn’t know, he ate it all before I even finished taking photos, the bastard). The heirloom carrots and farro that came with the dish also went down quickly, proving that they were no lame-o supporting acts to the steak. Even though Nonna may not have used farro in her day, hell, I think she would have been down with it if she took one bite of this.

Cape Grim rib eye ($41)
Cape Grim rib eye ($41)

I’m normally one to get excited over pastas at Italian restaurants but unfortunately, none of the pasta dishes caught my eye. Along with the usual carbonara and bolognese business, they had maybe one or two ‘house specialty’-type pasta dishes but nothing that really inspired me. For that reason, I went with the steak – that, and because Cape Grim is relatively hard to find in Gold Coast restaurants so you can imagine my excitement when I saw that Cucina Vivo offered it. The 300g beauty was cooked medium rare and served with crushed kipfler potatoes and a lamb’s lettuce salad; I couldn’t really fault anything in this dish – everything was well-cooked and tasty.

Despite my pasta comment, I still ended up ordering the lasagne ($16) much to Adam’s chagrin. He is of the view that restaurant lasagne is never as good as home-cooked lasagne, a very valid point. However, lasagne is one of those annoying dishes that requires time and patience to put together – two things that a lot of stressed out full-time workers like myself don’t have much of these days, hence why it’s usually always much easier to order it at restaurants.

In this case, I wish I listened to Adam instead of the left side of my brain that constantly thinks lasagne is the answer to everything in life. The lasagne was small (you can’t really see it but it’s in the background of the above photo), yet deceptively filling. Unfortunately, that was probably the best bit about it. The dish was sloppy, the meat layer was very skint and there seemed to be more cheese than pasta sheets. It didn’t taste bad, but it wasn’t a well-executed dish, this reinforcing Adam’s long-held belief that making your own lasagne is definitely the way to go.

Flavours of Italy dessert platter ($12)
Flavours of Italy dessert platter ($12)

We would have been happy leaving at this stage but the lovely folk at Cucina Vivo refused to let us leave without trying their dessert platter. Featuring a star-studded line-up of Italian desserts, the platter is definitely one of the best value dishes on the menu; $12 got you mini-sized versions of tiramisu, zuppa inglese, panna cotta and your usual gelati flavours of pistachio et al. They were all pretty good, but the coffee-soaked tiramisu with its delicate layers of mascarpone was my favourite.

There may have been a few misses over dinner at Cucina Vivo but there were definitely some hits. Do go here if you want breezy al fresco Italian dining in Broadbeach minus the bad faux accents and stodgy Aussie-Italian dishes full of cream, grease and tales of regret. And while you won’t miss much by saying ‘no’ to the lasagne, definitely order the schiacciata and if commit the sin of bypassing pastas for steaks, then you’ll be forgiven (no, REWARDED) by the Italian foodie gods.

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I eat too much.

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