175 Brunswick Street
Fitzroy VIC 3065
+61 9939 3293
Disclaimer: Matt and Libby attended this media preview dinner as guests of Smith & Daughters and Curated Control.
I haven’t been attending many foodie events in the last month or so due to work commitments, entertaining interstate and overseas visitors and general exhaustion. There’s that, plus wanting to spend more time being a recluse at home watching True Detective and eating Red Rock Deli potato chips.
But then I received a press pack in the mail – there was an invite to the launch of Smith & Daughters, a new bar-slash-restaurant in Fitzroy, printed on wood as well as a bottle of homemade apple jalapeño sauce. Apple jalapeño?! SOLD!
Smith & Daughters is the funky, tattooed and totally hipstered Latina love child of Shannon Martinez (former head chef of The Sweetwater Inn, South and the Gasometer Hotel) and Mo Wyse (Collingwood People’s Market). I didn’t know it at the time, but I later found out that Smith & Daughters did ‘plant-based Latin cuisine.’ Vegan food? In Hipsterville? Being a city-slicker and carnivore, I had to admit that I feeling like a Collingwood supporter at half time in round one but I need not have worried – we had a fantastic meal.
While every second male had a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon beer (hah!), I went straight for the Sailor Jerry piña colada. It was definitely the best piña colada I’ve had – the fresh coconut water really made the difference and there was none of that fake superficially sweet pineapple taste. The sangria was also delicious; it was sexy and bold with bursts of fruity fun.
Our first starter was the vegan ceviche which packed a lot of punch thanks to the awesome flavours of the tomatoes. I did feel that the oyster mushrooms disappeared in there somewhere though, disappointing given how much I love mushrooms.
The ceviche was served with tostones (twice-fried smashed plantain chips). They were beautifully golden and crispy, thus making them an excellent alternative to potato chips.
These insanely crunchy croquettes were probably my favourite thing that night. The béchamel filling was insanely creamy and the fake tuna, well, tasted like real tuna. We honestly wouldn’t have been able to tell the difference. This is a dish that I really want to introduce my very lactose intolerant and sea creature-loving marine biologist friend to – they would seriously freak him out.
What are these babies? They were corn husks filled with masa, mushroom, nopales (Mexican prickly pear cactus) and grilled corn before being steamed. They were then served with fresh lime and hot sauce, making it dish that wasn’t for the faint-hearted. They were also pretty filling; I was full by this stage – and we had not had our ‘mains’ yet.
Pazole is a pre-Columbian soup from Mexico. It traditionally contains pork but this version had sautéed oyster mushrooms, lime and pickled purple cabbage while crispy tortilla chips provided some texture. It was very earthy and hearty – definitely a good one to order on those frosty cold nights.
The Mexican char-grilled peppers were also one of those ‘OMG, I can’t believe these are vegan’ dishes. They were stuffed with a cream cheese and chorizo filling (obviously both were fake), then battered and fried. A spicy tomatillo sauce then completed the well-endowed package.
Our final savoury was Shannon’s secret paella, a fourth-generation family recipe. I loved the crunchy bits of rice and the aromatic vegetable saffron stock but not so much the mock prawns, sausages and scallops. Unlike the tuna in the croquette, you could tell that these weren’t the real thing – most of us on the table didn’t like the mushy texture of the faux meats and felt that the paella would be better off without them.
I’m not normally a fan of chocolate desserts but I was impressed by the Aztec chocolate tart. The sweet date filling balanced out the chocolate’s bitterness and the small serving size was perfect, given its intensity. There was also enough caffeine in the tart to sedate my Supercoach rage after releasing that I forgot to select my emergency players for the round. Yep.
I love donuts as much as Homer Simpson does and these mini Spanish donuts definitely did not disappoint. They were crispy on the outside and the insides gave way to a lovely fluffy texture and a tart quince jam filling.
So there you have it: excellent vegan food and non-annoying hipster dining companions in one funky little package. While Smith & Daughters won’t have me ditching meat for the rest of my life, it has definitely got me interested in trying more vegan-only restaurants. I’m also excited about the idea of taking my sceptical meat-loving friends to this joint and ordering a few dishes off the menu without telling them that the meat is all fake – however, I may ask them to hold the ‘meat’ when I order the paella.