Melbourne Restaurant Reviews: The Very Very Hungry Caterpillar

YES, this is yet another Melbourne food blog!

Little Press and Cellar

72 Flinders Street
Melbourne VIC 3000
+61 3 9677 9677
http://www.thepressclub.com.au/menu.html

Ah, George Calombaris. Masterchef judge, restaurant extraordinaire, businessman and cookbook author, it goes without saying that he leads an extremely busy life. And while many top-end restaurants around town closed down for Christmas last week, Little Press and Cellar, the little sister of Calombaris’ Press Club, was happily open on Wednesday afternoon when my ex-colleague, Rob and I stopped by. Hell, I even saw George himself running around and barking orders as I sat on my cushy leather chair towards the back of the linear, elegant dining room while I was waiting for Rob. Does the guy ever sleep? (I know that insomniac Rob doesn’t, but I’m talking about George here)

Little Press, at only six months old, may not have attracted a tremendous amount of press (badoom, ching!) but it has been getting a lot of nods from both food bloggers and non-foodie friends. While the bar space is as elegant as the Press Club next door, you get the sense that things are done slightly more casually here. Wine lists are hung on a little hook underneath each table, the service isn’t as formal as what you’d get next door and one would be able to saunter into the place with linen shorts and a tank top without anyone batting an eyelid (well, I did anyway).

While Little Press’ list of both old and new world, local and imported, wines was out of this world (they even had a French one from 1945!), Rob and I decided to have some ouzo. He ordered a glass of plomari from Mytilene ($7.50) while I opted for a Barbyanni Green, also from Mytilene ($8.50). Our glasses came with a wooden board with a separate glass of water and another glass full of ice cubes. We were told that we could drink it however we wanted: either straight-up or with ice and/or water. We took tentative sips without adding water or ice before plonking several ice cubes in our glass and then drizzling the mixture with water, which I’ve been told is the traditional way of doing it. Dare I say that I do prefer drinking it straight-up though. While my Barbyanni Green had a relatively mellow, grassy taste (which was supposed to represent ‘ocean mist’), Rob’s had a much stronger flavour which consisted of bold and intense herb notes.

Food-wise, Greek-inspired bar snacks are king here with only a limited selection of mains and desserts available for those looking for a proper meal. Because we were meeting our work crew for dinner later that evening, Rob and I decided to share a few nibbles so that we would have room for burgers at Beer Deluxe.

I was delighted to see George’s lovely taramosalata (fish roe dip) make an appearance at Little Press ($13.50). While I was slightly disappointed to see that the trimmings that made it good the first time I had it weren’t there (Yarra Valley salmon roe, sultanas etc), it only took a little bit of olive oil to heighten the deliciousness of this dip which was as thick as (though obviously much nicer than) Rob’s eyebrows. I was especially delighted to see the taramosalata served with chips instead of boring stale pita bread pieces. The chips were particularly good; they were so irresistibly crunchy. Like, really crunchy. Wow. And props for the presentation too.

Rob and I had a sticky pork belly square each ($6 per piece). Each piece was evenly roasted, then plonked on a squirt of ouzo-infused apple jelly before being adorned with a strip of crispy pancetta, sage leaves and ash salt. It was a well-crafted dish, jam-packed with lovely contrasts in both taste and texture. At the risk of sounding like a complete travesty, I’m not a fan of pork belly (the texture of the fat puts me off) but I really loved this dish and the pork fat blissfully melted in my mouth without any involuntary gag reflexes.

Finally, I had a piece of kataifi-wrapped prawn ($5.50 each). No prawn for Rob though – the poor bugger is allergic to seafood (and pretty much everything that tastes good). While everything up to this point had been fantastic, the prawn simply blew me away. The Attikii honey dressing was sinfully sweet and delicious, and slightly infused with a bit of lemon and chilli for a slight edge. A dollop of almond yoghurt (not avocado as per website menu) on top provided a lovely smooth contrast against the crispy kataifi shreds and crunchy chopped nuts while chopped coriander kept things fresh. Just, WOW.

We were pretty much done with our food when a waitress sailed past to plonk some hot white bread on our table. She apologised for not having given us bread earlier on (yeah, a bit late don’t you think?!) but they had only JUST come out of the oven. Only a minor annoyance – and yes, the bread WAS delicious especially with the olive oil from Crete and the ash salt – but still, WTF?!

Despite not having ordered a lot of food, we were both quite full. Heck, even when I sat down to eat my burger at Beer Deluxe almost three hours later, I was still not even sure if I would be able to finish it because my stomach was so, so satisfied (I did, but only just). I guess this means that while Little Press is all about bar snacks and drinks, one should be able to enjoy a very filling lunch (or dinner) there. George, you may be occasionally ignorant (turning your nose up at century-old egg and not knowing what it is, even though you’re supposed to be a CHEF?) and a food blogger-hating douche, but damn, your food is absolutely AMAZING. I wrote positive reviews for not only this place but the Press Club and Hellenic Republic so please don’t do to me what you did to Winsor Dobbin, please?

Little Press and Cellar on Urbanspoon

11 Comments on Little Press and Cellar

  1. D'
    January 1, 2011 at 22:02 (4 years ago)

    Yep I liked their prawn kataifi with almonds and stuff. It was fantastic, pity only got the one!

    When I was there a couple months back, yes, the prawn katifi reminded me of J-Pub’s and Hako’s deep-fried prawns that had a texture that reminded me of Kettle Chips ahahahahahaha.
    :D

    I wasn’t blown away by the steak I had, hrmmm definitely will try the pork belly or something different next time. The pork belly here looks like a pfish dish.

    Reply
    • libishski
      January 2, 2011 at 22:37 (4 years ago)

      I dunno why, D, but I didn’t get the avocado cream and the almonds like you did. Not that I’m complaining about my modified version though :D

      I did see your sirloin steak on the menu and thought it was an odd addition as it certainly didn’t have any Greek elements or anything like that (it was something you’d find in any respectable gastro-pub) but yeah, definitely stick to the Greek-inspired nibbles and you’ll be right :)

      Reply
  2. Jan Jan
    January 1, 2011 at 22:04 (4 years ago)

    The kataifi-wrapped prawn looks divine. I wanna go now :(

    Reply
  3. Hannah
    January 2, 2011 at 10:21 (4 years ago)

    So you’ve got the brains, but have you got the touch? :P

    I’m slightly surprised to hear that George himself was running around – quite good that he hasn’t completely given up on the stoves in favour of the tv! I’ve never had taramosalata. Shame on me!

    Reply
  4. msihua
    January 2, 2011 at 10:23 (4 years ago)

    Thou art a brave soul for daring to whip out thy camera in his domain!! Looks good and now I want to go too!!!

    Reply
  5. reality raver
    January 2, 2011 at 11:53 (4 years ago)

    Hey thanks for the link. Also I am visiting Melbourne in 2 weeks and may have to go and check this place out. Any other recommendations for melbourne particularly for breakfast on the Sunday as I am staying near the Vic Markets.

    Reply
    • libishski
      January 2, 2011 at 22:32 (4 years ago)

      Hey RR,

      I’ll shoot you an e-mail very shortly :)

      Reply
  6. Ashley Ng
    January 2, 2011 at 16:11 (4 years ago)

    Ah, I had completely forgotten about this little guy, thanks for the reminder, will have to keep in mind the next time i’m in the city. :) I also adore the presentation of the chips!

    Is it safe to wield a camera in his restaurants? I’ve heard he’s not fond of bloggers and I tend to show up with handy lil DSLR which makes me not so subtle…:s

    Reply
    • libishski
      January 2, 2011 at 22:34 (4 years ago)

      Hey Ashley,

      I’ve been the the Press Club a couple of times and took a point and shoot there both times and didn’t have any problems, ditto when I had lunch at Hellenic Republic. This was the first time I actually took a DSLR in and although I got a few curious glances from other diners, the waiters swanned by without giving me so much as a glance.

      Reply

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